Monday, February 1, 2016

Chikondi Malawi

On Monday, Ryan and I began our last full week at DLH. We spent the morning in the pharmacy, taking an active role in dispensing. The pharmacy attendant, Myah, made us a Chichewa cheat sheet containing the most pertinent words for the pharmacy. It was both fun and challenging to dispense medications in this way. It was also rewarding to know that we were contributing (at least in some small way) to the pharmacy and hospital.


In the afternoon, we made progress on our project plans before meeting the Texans for the HASH run. The Norwegian family hosted this week, so we drove to their house and waited for the activities to begin. There was a good turnout, likely because most people have now returned to Malawi from holiday. I saw a few old faces from last week, including the nurse Emily, but there were also some fresh faces. Similar to last week, I enjoyed making new connections and learning of their stories. I joined the “long run” again in order to take advantage of the infrequent exercise opportunity. The temperature had cooled down noticeably, dropping to the low 70s and even 60s at night. Relative to the previous heat, it felt quite cold, but also made for perfect running weather.


The various walking and running groups ended back at the Norwegian’s house, where we shared snacks, drinks, and the usual traditions. The night concluded with dinner at the Podgore’s house.


We managed to get through Tuesday with scarce electricity and water. In the morning, I collected project data from a nurse in the male ward. The afternoon was spent helping inventory and pre-pack in the pharmacy. Dinner at the Texans’ house was extra special for the honorary guests—Korean mission workers. James prepared a colorful vegetable salad, coleslaw, fried eggplant, rice with chakalaka (a spicy vegetable dish from South Africa), and penne with chicken. For dessert, we were spoiled with chocolate cake and cookies, and the usual Rooibos tea. I greatly admire and appreciate the sense of community and generosity fostered by the Podgores.



I woke up on Wednesday in realization that I would be leaving Malawi in exactly one week. I joined Sarah for a 5:30 am run before going to work.



Ryan and I attended the morning Handover meeting, and from there, we followed two physicians. I collected project data from Dr. Gary in the pediatric ward. Not surprisingly, most children had malaria. Their piercing and fearful screams always grew louder when a nurse or physician drew near.



The weather was perfect—sunny and warm, but not too hot. More guests joined us at the Podgore's house for dinner that night. This time, we welcomed our German friends from HASH, Florian and Franziska. After the meal, we watched a documentary about Burkitt’s lymphoma in Malawi.


Both Sarah and Kate showed up for a morning run on Thursday. They have been working at KCH this week (like Amy and Ashlyn), where they noticed several differences from DLH. For example, KCH is the main hospital in Lilongwe, which has specific clinics, including HIV. Because it’s free and centrally located, most patients are in worse shape than those at DLH in terms of health, nourishment, cleanliness, etc. It would have been interesting to personally witness this distinction.




Handover was composed of the usual update given by the overnight healthcare workers that always seem to present their reports in a whisper. Afterwards, Ryan and I joined Dr. Podgore, Sarah, and Kate on the pediatric ward rounds. I made it a point to choose an interesting case to present back in Pittsburgh. We returned to the pharmacy in the afternoon, before walking up the hill to have dinner with the Texans. Always an enjoyable evening with our second family.


Friday was wonderful. After a morning run, Ryan and I were invited to spend the day with the Texans.  We had cereal and bananas for breakfast (my favorite!) before departing for the KCH campus. Kate and Sarah dropped off freshly baked cookies at the Baylor HIV clinic, where they had spent time earlier in the week. Next door, the University of North Carolina clinic was hosting a blood drive. There was a current shortage of blood, so we were eager to help. Unfortunately, however, my iron levels were too low to donate.

That afternoon, we visited Ione's NGO that is located in a very rural and poor area of Lilongwe. Within this small community, Ione and her sponsors created a feeding center that provides breakfast and lunch to the orphans in school. The Chikondi Malawi program feeds over 700. Chickondi means "love" in Chichewa.


















We began our visit in the main schoolhouse, where the primary school children were practicing English and math. The nursery-aged children had already come and gone that morning. I was stunned by the amount of children clustered in the tiny room. I was equally shocked by their infectious happiness. They had clean clothes, food, and a roof over their heads—everything that they needed to be content.



After the lesson, the children lined up for lunch. The feeding center had prepared large vats of rice or nsima, beans, and vegetables. Again I was fascinated by how well behaved the children were. They weren’t fighting or crying, but rather happy to be alive and well. And to my delight, they loved having their picture taken.

 






















Many children in secondary school come from remote areas (some as far as four hours on bicycle) to receive education. These students are housed in a dormitory throughout the school year. We visited the girl’s dormitory, where the young women put on a brief performance of song and dance. The choir passionately rang out enthusiastic hymns. It was genuinely beautiful and harmonious—a truly moving experience. These women lead extraordinary lives, studying in the early and late hours of the day when not working in the fields or in the house.

Video 1. Secondary school-girl performance

Later on, we walked through the villages, visiting several families and groups of people. The stares that we received that day were a mix of confusion, curiosity, and amusement. Sarah, Kate, Ryan, and I each offered a quilt to an elderly member of the community. We were also asked to pray for them. Most asked for good health or resolution of pain, or often for rain. To my surprise, one older man pleaded to stop drinking alcohol.

















We also passed through the crops belonging to the feeding center. Despite the drought, the fields of corn (or maize) grew tall. Also in the area were fields of beans and a vegetable garden, as well as tobacco crops that do not belong to the feeding center. It was a mighty hot day in Lilongwe.





The feeding center left me feeling humbled by the global happiness of the community. At the hospital, I am accustomed to seeing sick patients that do not wish to be there. In contrast, this experience led me to witness normal Malawians going about their daily lives. Malawi is one of the poorest nations in the world, yet its population is generally content and grateful for what they do have. This finding leads me to argue the point that people are happier with less. Simplicity too often goes underrated. I will never forget the children’s smiling faces, beaming energy, and the countless waves and kisses directed at us. Should you have any interest in learning more about Ione’s program, please visit the following website: www.chikondimalawi.org.


On the way back to the Podgore’s house, we stopped at the specialty grocery store, Kapani. We then shared lunch at their house before departing again. Our first stop was at the African Bible College (ABC)—a Christian community, school, and health clinic founded by missionaries. This network is also established in Liberia and Uganda.


Afterwards, we drove to Old Town to peruse the craft stall vendors and to share a drink at Kiboko’s restaurant nearby. It was our last night with Kate, as she was to return to Texas the following morning. A snowstorm was forecasted to hit the North East, so we were all hoping that her flight to Washington D.C. would not be canceled.





After watching the sunset-colored clouds from the restaurant balcony, the Podgores dropped Ryan and I off at Gerry’s house in Area 3. There we ate dinner with the residents and the new addition to the house—Gerry’s colleague, Jeremy. Gerry had just recently returned from a brief business trip to Korea. I fell asleep that night in anticipation of my last weekend in Malawi.