Lake Malawi and Dedza Mountain

A loud overnight thunderstorm left the landscape lush and dewy in the morning. However, it quickly dried up as the temperature rose to the mid-90s.

In the afternoon, the now four-some in Area 3 took a walk into the heart of Old Town. We walked past the Craft Market, selling beautiful wooden carvings, woven baskets, and paintings. I wanted to stop and browse, but we were immediately swarmed as we approached, and I quickly became anxious. Another time, perhaps.

Down the street, we stopped at the ShopRite to pick up snacks for the week and at an Airtel tent to buy data for our phones. On the way home, we stopped for a refreshing fruit smoothie at a clearly expat restaurant, Kiboko.

Back at the house, Gerry had arrived to Malawi. I was happy to have a fuller house rather than just Ryan and I. Nancy prepared a special dinner containing vegetable soup, vegetable lasagna, and apple pie—quite possibly my favorite meal so far! Luckily, Gerry is vegetarian, so Nancy always prepares plant-based dishes. Afterwards, we hashed out our first week impressions, concerns, and questions. Nightfall brought another thunderstorm.

Saturday was lake day! Lake Malawi is one of the largest lakes on the continent. The long and narrow body of fresh water serves as the country’s eastern border with Mozambique. Unfortunately, much of the lake is rampant with a parasite that is spread by snails; so most areas are unsafe to swim. Still, it’s a beautiful area that attracts tourists year-round, especially for its wide variety of fish.

After breakfast, Ryan, Amy, Ashlyn, and I left the house at 8 am. Chipi’s friend, Steven, drove us two hours east through the small town of Salima and finally to Senga Bay. We set up camp on the beach outside of the Sunbird Hotel. Lathered in sunscreen, we chilled out under a small hut with a few beers. To my knowledge, the only national brewery, Carlsberg, is located in the southern city of Blantyre. However, the beer originates from Copenhagen.

The stunning lake was enormous. We rationalized that the mountains across the way were the shores of Mozambique. We had to remind ourselves that it was January and likely snowing in Pittsburgh.

Eventually the Texans joined us, bearing peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for lunch. We also perused the nearby curio craft stalls, resisting the temptation to buy one of everything. Making sure to be back before dusk, we left by 3 pm.

 

The drive to and from the lake was quite scenic. We cut through the lush landscape, dodging pedestrians and cyclists on the edge of the road. Animals were also scattered about—mostly goats, bulls, and dogs. Periodically we passed through small areas lined with stalls selling fresh tomatoes or other local market items. Additionally, there were a handful of people selling random items to cars passing by. Once I even saw a woman sitting along the road with her arm raised up, holding an irritated chicken. Another time, the same situation, except with a rabbit.

Back in Area 3, Nancy prepared delicious tomato soup and pizzas for dinner. I’ve begun to notice how eating hot food increases your body temperature when already in a hot environment.


On Sunday, the four of us took another day trip, this time to Dedza. Steven drove us again, heading an hour and a half southeast to the small town outside Lilongwe. We were dropped off at the Dedza Lodge, where we found a guide to take us on a three-hour hike through Dedza Mountain.

Loaded up with sunscreen and water, we followed Peter along the route. Hiring a guide was a good decision as there are many paths up the mountain, and we didn’t have a map. Peter also knew several “short cuts.”

The scenic views were the most beautiful I’ve seen so far in Malawi. You could see for miles, even as far as the distant hills of Mozambique! Peter also pointed out the direction to Lilongwe and to Lake Malawi. Apparently, Dedza normally has a cooler climate than Lilongwe, but we picked an unusually hot day to visit. Staying hydrated was key.

At one point, Peter’s friend, Florence, joined the rest of our ascent. We also passed a group of boys leading a pack of dogs, supposedly hunting for rabbits.

Then after about two hours, we found a shady spot along the path to take a break and share our leftover pizza. According to Peter, we were still about 50 minutes from the summit, but everyone was more than satisfied with our hike and the rewarding scenery below.

Finally, we began our descent. It was much quicker than the climb up. Towards the bottom, we came upon a woman struggling to hoist a hefty bundle of branches onto her head to be carried down to the village. Florence helped her lift the load. An incredible scene.

Back at the lodge, we thanked Peter and parted ways. The lodge is a quaint oasis, perfect for an overnight stay when traveling from Lilongwe to southern towns of the county, such as Blantyre. At the café, we rewarded ourselves with cheesecake and fresh lemon squash (similar to lemonade). Food always tastes better after a long hike!

Then we wandered over to the famed pottery gallery where local artists produce ceramic plates, platters, mugs, vases, and more. The collection is beautiful and distinct from the crafts found in typical curio stalls. Additionally, the idea of supporting such craftsmanship in a low-income country makes it more worthwhile to make a purchase.

Steven met us at the lodge around 3:30 pm and took us back to Lilongwe, where we went out for dinner with Gerry. The Indian-Asian fusion restaurant, Word of Mouth, is a short drive from the house, located in Area 9. Gerry seemed to be a regular at the restaurant, as the waiters knew his name. Normally, service can be quite slow at restaurants, but not this time. The food was plentiful and excellent. Back at the house, I packed my things for my second week at DLH!

Okay, I admit that we played "tourist" this weekend (after I previously vowed that I wouldn’t be doing that on this trip). I suppose that it became easier to plan trips when Amy and Ashlyn arrived because they wanted to explore on the weekends, too. And I think that’s okay—as long as you don’t loose sight of your main goal of the journey.